A stone’s throw from the market (ideal for fresh produce), the clientele is drawn by the work of youthful chef, Martin Dumas, also a local lad. His culinary score, perfectly in tune with today’s tastes, features a brief seasonal menu, generous hunks of meat to be shared and the house speciality, “thickly sliced calf’s liver”, which he learnt from Jean-Paul Arabian in Paris. Small, quiet terrace.