Chef Yoshihiko Kousaka is in control of this beloved sushiya, which offers a stellar omakase in an elegant setting. The dining room flaunts a classic Japanese sensibility—outfitted with a counter for 12, a few tables, soft piano music, as well as an attentive staff that enhance the overall experience.Some counters like to keep everyone in sync, but Chef Kousaka is more flexible. It is certainly a rigorous balancing act, but he moves with confidence and skill. Fish is minimally embellished, relying instead on impeccable technique. Highlights include everything from red snapper and Japanese sea bass to wild winter yellowtail and firefly squid. Supplemental items such as fresh or seared uni or a crisp bowl of oshinko moriwase, are also available and can augment your meal. For hand rolls and dessert, visit sister spot, Maki Kosaka.