Genki Iritani apprenticed at a number of kappo in Osaka. He flexes the skills and ingenuity he developed there, responding nimbly to customers’ preferences. He focuses on live seafood dishes, as the restaurant name ‘Kassen’ (‘sliced fresh’) suggests. Being able to select drinking snacks such as squid cut into thin strips like noodles with caviar or oysters simmered with pepper is fun. Crumbed beef fillet and beef tongue simmered to tender perfection are flavours neither Western nor Japanese, yet quintessentially Osaka.