The Neva is not only a river in Russia, but also the name of this restaurant, headed by Mexican chef Beatriz González, after completing stints in top establishments including Lucas Carton and La Grande Cascade. In a friendly, modern Parisian bistro setting, she conjures up modern, multi-facetted cuisine, illustrated by blow torch-seared foie gras, smoked eel and dashi stock, or skate meunière with spring vegetables and a gutsy aïoli. Everything tastes of something here.