Everyone knows the old adage about being on the right side of the train tracks, but what about being under them? That’s the story of this humble Peruvian cevicheria, set just a few steps north of the John F. Kennedy International Airport. Cushy pillows atop tree trunks act as chairs outside; inside, by the door, speakers blare with Latin beats.No need to debate what to order: leche de tigre is the star, paraded out in a giant martini glass filled with thinly sliced octopus, scallops, shrimp, and set afloat in an electrifying elixir of lime juice and ginger. But perhaps the most surprising dish of all is the pork tamal, hidden away in the corner of the carte. It is presented in a bamboo steamer and highlights the magic that is soft, fluffy masa.