The name is a play on ‘ho’, which could mean ‘step’, as in ‘stepping forward’ or ‘bounty, prosperity’, reflecting chef Ryusuke Yamazaki’s desire that his restaurant blossom and prosper. The soup stock gets its umami from kombu, with a light flavour reflecting his Kyoto experience. Dishes such as fish steamed with grated turnip on top and dumplings made from bamboo-shoot derive from ages past, recounting the culinary culture of the ancient capital. Pike conger in summer and eddoes in winter are eagerly awaited.