This 19C house near Pau is the haunt of a couple, chef Olivier Nicolau from Lescar, and his partner Karine, in charge of the service, both of whom learnt the ropes in star establishments. The subtle, niftily crafted repertory showcases regional produce: Projan squab, Lucq-de-Béarn mushrooms, Bahus-Soubiran lemon, Poey-de-Lescar pepper… Intelligent surf and turf combinations and generous helpings add the final touch to this epicurean portrait.