The idea that tasting menus are hours-long and showy is far from true here. The vibe is boisterous, and the crowds are delighted to be here. The open kitchen is the obvious centerpiece. From here, a young team blitzes out an array of impressive grilled bites meant to be eaten with your hands—Kochi is Korean for skewer, after all.Chef Sungchul Shim taps into his Korean roots and fine-dining pedigree to create a solid but playful menu. Start with sweet potato and sunchoke gratin paired with a clever doenjang béchamel, then salmon bibimbap, mingling pollock roe, candied anchovy and toasted nori with brown soy-butter rice, is a harmonious high point. A stick of rich and nutty black sesame ice cream is the last hurrah. Worth the splurge? Without a doubt.